Before Sewing Kimono

Hello, this is Miki Wakamatsu.
Today, I would like to show you kimono sewing tools.
First of all, sewing needles.
Sewing needles are so thin and short.
I use a needle called “四ノ三(Shinosan).”
This “四” shows the thickness of the needle.
This “三” shows the length of the needle.
You may sew a silk kimono or a cotton kimono, but all of them use this needle.
Next, the thread.
Threads are chosen to match the color and material of the item to be sewn.
Pincushion.
I use a tailor’s tool with a pincushion attached to it.
This is the kakehari.
Kakehari and Kukedai are used as a set of two.
There are two types of kukedai, kukedai for tailors and compact type.
A ruler.
I use two rulers of the unit called “Kujira jaku”.
Small scissors for sewing. 
Dress maker’s Scissors.
A round pattern. 
I always use the aluminum one. 
You can also make them out of cardboard.
A weight for fabric. 
This is useful to have two of them.
Yubinuki.
Thimble for sewing.
This is a powder type chalk.
Professionals don’t use chalk, but I tell my students that they are useful to have when marking.
Kote. KOTE is a traditional Japanese iron. 
At your home, a small iron is a good substitute.
That’s all for the introduction of kimono sewing tools.
They are also available in M KIMONO online store, so please check them out.
For more detailed explanations of kimono sewing tools, please check my blog.

[How to Make a Sewing Space]
Hello, this is Miki Wakamatsu.
Today, I would like to show you how to make a sewing space.
What I have now is a board called a heradai.
A heradai is used by opening it like this.
When cutting, you need the space of the open heradai, but when you are just sewing, you don’t need such a large space.
The space for three sheets of the heradai is enough.
The 2尺(syaku) long ruler also fits on the heradai, so it is enough space for sewing.
My recommendation is not to work directly on the heradai, but to lay down a piece of flannel.
There are many types of flannel available at fabric stores, but I use the thickest one I can find.
I work in this state with the flannel laid out.
Laying down the flannel makes it a little fluffier and gives a cleaner finish when ironed.
You can also stick needles into the flannel, which is convenient.
I like the fluffiness, so I work with two layers of flannel.
If you can make a work space like this, I think you can finish a nicely kimono or nagajuban. 
Please refer to this if you like.

Size: Let’s measure your body size!

Hello, this is Miki Wakamatsu.
Today, I would like to show you how to take your body measurements and calculate the size of your kimono.

The reason why I am going to show you kimono measurements is that when sewing nagajuban, hanjuban, and susoyoke, the kimono measurements are always used as a basis for the measurements of the nagajuban and other garments. Therefore, the size of the kimono is necessary for anything we do. So, today, let’s take measurements of your body and calculate the size of the kimono.

Now, first, I will measure the hips.
Hips are measured at the point where they stick out the most.
It is 92.5cm.

Next, I measure the chest (breast size.)
It is best to measure the chest as it will be when you wear the kimono.
When measuring the breast size, measure the top of the breast.
86 cm.

Next, measure the thickness of the neck.
The position of the measurement is parallel to the larynx.
It is 33.5 cm.

Next, we measure the Yuki.
This dummy has no arms, so I will use another dummy to explain.

When measuring Yuki, there are various ways to measure, such as with the arm at an angle or straightened, but I measure with the arm straightened because I want to reduce the margin of error as much as possible.

I start with the top bone of the spine.
Place the measuring tape on the top bone of the spine and go to the shoulder.
I use the point on the shoulder as a guide because there is a pressure point that feels good to press.
Press the measure once at the shoulder.

After pressing at the shoulder, measure its extension to the wrist bone.
In the case of this dummy, it is 60 cm.

The point to note is not to proceed up at the point of the shoulder.
If you advance the measure toward the top of the shoulder, the sleeves will be longer.
Please notice the point of the shoulder.

The same applies when measuring from the shoulder to the arm.
If you measure the upper side of the arm, the Yuki will be longer, so be sure to measure the back side of the arm.
Another thing to note is to be sure to hold the measure at the point. If you measure with the measure taut, the Yuki will be shortened.

If you want to make it longer, add 1 cm to the measured numbers to make it longer.
Please refer to the following formula for calculating the length of the yuki.
You will also need your height to determine the mittake of the kimono, so please make a note of this as well.

[Required body measurements]
1. Height
2. The chest
3. The hips
4. The thickness of the neck
5. The Yuki

These are the five.
Next, I would like to move on to the determination of kimono size.