Hanjuban/はんじゅばん/ハンジュバン/半襦袢

Introduction of Hanjuban to be made here

Calculate Hanjuban Size

Update: April 04, 2023

[The size of the Hanjuban I make in the video]
Mitake: 58cm
Yuki: 49cm
Sodehaba: 15cm
Katahaba: 34cm
Sodetake: 19cm
Miyatsukuchi: 7.5cm
Maehaba: Full
Ushirohaba: 31cm
Kurikoshi: 2.6cm
Tsukekomi: 2cm
Kataaki: 8.3cm

Explanatory Note
>>> How to decide the Hanjuban size and explanation | Class 1
Updated May 3, 2023

Step 1: What to prepare

Update: April 04, 2023

[Preparations]
・Fabric for the body (for Shin-mosu: 37cm width x 3m)
・Fabric for the collar (17cm x 170cm)
・Sewing thread (polyester hand sewing thread)

[Before sewing]
・It is recommended that you through water before sewing. In the case of Shin-mosu fabric, it may shrink by about 2cm in width and 6cm in length. (The process is explained in the video from 5:05).

[Points to note]
・Check if the cloth width is wider than the Kata-haba(shoulder width.) *Shoulder width + 4 cm or more is good.
・Select a fabric that will not fade.
・Choose a fabric that will not show through the color of the Hanjuban when you wear the kimono.

Step 2: Fabric Preparation

Update: April 12, 2023

Step 3: Cutting

Update: April 12, 2023

Step 4: Marking

How to mark and cut Kataaki

Step 5: Sode / そで・ソデ・袖 / Sleeve Making and Stitching

Update: May 03, 2023

Reference Articles:
Basic of hand sewing : Kaeshibari and Itoshigoki
Single Thread and Double Thread : Kimono Sewing Terms Glossary

Step 6: Senui / せぬい・セヌイ・背縫い / Back Stitching

Update: May 11, 2023

Step 7: Wakinui / わきぬい・ワキヌイ・脇縫い / Side Stitching

Update: May 20, 2023

Step 8: Wakikuke / わきくけ・ワキクケ・脇くけ / Side Seam Allowance

Update: May 31, 2023

Update: June 10, 2023 *English translation will be a while longer.

Step 9: Susokuke / すそくけ・スソクケ・裾くけ / Hem Seam Allowance

Update: June 10, 2023 *English translation will be a while longer.

Susokuke at left front body

Susokuke at right front body and back body

Step 10: Before Eritsuke / Before Collar Stitching

Make Mikazuki:Update: Jun 25, 2023

Mikazuki: Update: Jun 25, 2023

Marking at Nagare: Update: Jun 25, 2023

Making at collar: Update: Jun 25, 2023

Step 11: Eritsuke / えりつけ・エリツケ・衿付け / Collar Stitching

Step 12: Before Eriosame / えりおさめ まえ・エリオサメ マエ・衿納め前 / Before Collae Seam Allowance

Step 13: Eriosame / えりおさめ・エリオサメ・衿納め / Collae Seam Allowance

Step 14: Sodetsuke / そでつけ・ソデツケ・袖付け / Sew the sleeves and body together

Step 15: Haneritsuke / はんえりつけ・ハンエリツケ・半衿付け / Sewing a haneri to the collar