Closed seams and open seams are the two most common types of seams used in sewing, not only for kimonos, and are given different names depending on how the seam allowance is handled. In kimono sewing, closed seams with “kise” are the basic type of seams. Here I would like to explain what a “kise” is.
What is “ Kise ”
Cloth sewn together with Unshin is finished by turning down the seam allowance outside the seam and iron. The area between the seam and the finish line is called the “kise.” (The area circled in red in the figure below)
Depth of Kise
The depth of the crease is usually calculated at 2 mm, although it is often referred to as “deep crease” or “shallow crease.” When actually sewing, it should be less than 2mm, but it can be adjusted slightly depending on the thickness of the fabric and other factors. (The photo below shows the sewn fabrics with the kise in place.)
What kind of kimono requires “kise”?
All seams of Nagajuban, kimono, and haori must be closed seams and need Kise.
Coats, such as Michiyuki coats and Doucugi, do not need to be kise. Finish with open seams.
The document includes three types of seam allowance used when sewing kimonos.
Kise wo kakeru : Make a closed seam and need kise and then iron the place.
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When sewing a kimono, the entire process is sewn by hand.
Basic hand sewing practice and partial stitches method can be viewed free of charge.