Rules for Seam Allowance : Kimono Sewing Rules

There are rules on how to turn the seam allowance for backstitching, side stitching, and okumi stitching. The rule applies to women’s kimonos, men’s kimonos and children’s kimonos. The same rule applies to all types of kimono (yukata, Hitoe-kimono and awase-kimono), nagajuban, haori (Japanese traditional coat), and kimono coats. The difference is whether or not a “kise” is attached to the seam allowance. Here, I would like to explain the case of kimono.

Direction of turn seam allowance edge in.

  • Backstitching : Turn in the left rear body.
  • Side stitch : Turn in the front body.
  • Okumi stitch : Turn in the Okumi cloth.

Reference Documents

The direction of seam allowance turning is shown in the figure.

About Kise

Kimonos are needed “Kise” that depth 5厘=2mm.
Kise is applied to all kimonos, including women’s, men’s, and children’s kimonos.
The depth of the kise differs from part to part, such as 1分=4mm, 1分 5厘=6mm, and so on.

Turning the seam allowance and applying the iron at a point 5厘=2mm outside the seam is said “kise wo kakeru(in Japanese).” In Japanese, “Kise wo kakete kudasai” is the same as “Please ironing at a point 5厘=2mm outside the seam.”

About Exceptions

There are no exceptions. Any kimono, yukata, houmongi, nagajuban, hanjuban, etc., men’s, women’s, or children’s, all follow this rule.

Other kimono sewing terms

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M KIMONO online store sells Japanese sewing tools.

Video Collection

When sewing a kimono, the entire process is sewn by hand.
Basic hand sewing practice and partial stitches method can be viewed free of charge.

Kimono sewing
https://vimeo.com/showcase/sewing-method

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