There are rules on how to turn the seam allowance for backstitching, side stitching, and okumi stitching. The rule applies to women’s kimonos, men’s kimonos and children’s kimonos. The same rule applies to all types of kimono (yukata, Hitoe-kimono and awase-kimono), nagajuban, haori (Japanese traditional coat), and kimono coats. The difference is whether or not a “kise” is attached to the seam allowance. Here, I would like to explain the case of kimono.
Direction of turn seam allowance edge in.
- Backstitching : Turn in the left rear body.
- Side stitch : Turn in the front body.
- Okumi stitch : Turn in the Okumi cloth.
The direction of seam allowance turning is shown in the figure.
Kimonos are needed “Kise” that depth 5厘=2mm.
Kise is applied to all kimonos, including women’s, men’s, and children’s kimonos.
The depth of the kise differs from part to part, such as 1分=4mm, 1分 5厘=6mm, and so on.
Turning the seam allowance and applying the iron at a point 5厘=2mm outside the seam is said “kise wo kakeru(in Japanese).” In Japanese, “Kise wo kakete kudasai” is the same as “Please ironing at a point 5厘=2mm outside the seam.”
There are no exceptions. Any kimono, yukata, houmongi, nagajuban, hanjuban, etc., men’s, women’s, or children’s, all follow this rule.
Other kimono sewing terms
Sewing noteIn the world of kimono sewing, there are still many people who use kujira-shaku, and I am one of them.In this article, I would like to explain how to writ Kujira-shaku without using the kanji characters for “尺(shaku),” “寸(sun),” and “分(bu).” Basics of Kujira-shaku Scale Kujira-shaku Units and Readings 厘：ri分：bu寸：sun [sún]尺：shaku丈：jou*The Hepburn system is used for Japanese romanization. Relationship of Each Unit In the Kujira-saku scale, “分 (bu)” is the standard. 1/2 bu ＝ 5 ri1 bu : Standard10 bu ＝ 1 sun100 bu ＝ 10 sun ＝ 1 shaku1000 bu ＝ 100 sun ＝ 10 shaku ＝ 1 jou It is easy to understand if you have a kujira-syaku […]
Sewing noteThe words used for sewing a kimono and the words used for wearing a kimono are similar but definitely refer to different parts of the kimono. In this article, we will introduce the difference between “senui” and “sechushin.” What is “Senui (背縫い) ?” The term “Senui” means backstitching. When sewing a kimono, it is used like this: In Japanese, “Senui 3-bu(1cm)”. In other words, it means “Please sew backstitch with a seam allowance of 3-bu(1cm).” What is “Sechushin (背中心) ?” The term “sechushin” refers to the center of the back in its finished state. In other words, it refers to the state after backstitching and ironing. For example, when sewing […]
Sewing noteIn kimono sewing, we use a unit called ” Kujira-shaku “.Here is the formula for converting cm to Kujira-shaku. Conversion formula between cm and shaku Shaku(尺)＝cm×2.64cm=Shaku(尺)×0.3788 For example, when converting a height of 165 cm to a scale165 x 2.64 = 435 (rounding down this time to the nearest whole number) This is read as “4-shaku 3-sun 5-bu.” The one place is bu(分)The ten place is sun(寸)The hundred place is shaku(尺) [Related Articles]Kujira-syaku : Kimono sewing tools Why are the numbers that multiply the conversion formula different? “尺 = cm x 2.64” is equal to “cm = 尺 ÷ 2.62.”In other words, “cm = 尺 x (1 ÷ 2.64).” (1 […]
Sewing noteWASAI, the traditional way of sewing kimono, is done by hand without using a sewing machine. Here, I explain the threads used for sewing, ” single thread ” and “double thread”. Single Thread and Double Thread Basically, sew with single thread. Double thread is used only when you want to fasten the cloth sturdily. Specifically, double thread is the case when fastening the sleeves of Awase-kimono. Knotting Tips For both single and double threads, tie a knot at the end of the thread. If the thread is long beyond the knot, cut it short. How to say in Japanese Single Thread : IPPON-DORI, いっぽんどり, 一本どりDouble Thread : NIHON-DORI, にほんどり, 二本どり […]
Sewing noteClosed seams and open seams are the two most common types of seams used in sewing, not only for kimonos, and are given different names depending on how the seam allowance is handled. In kimono sewing, closed seams with “kise” are the basic type of seams. Here I would like to explain what a “kise” is. What is “ Kise ” Cloth sewn together with Unshin is finished by turning down the seam allowance outside the seam and iron. The area between the seam and the finish line is called the “kise.” (The area circled in red in the figure below) Depth of Kise The depth of the crease is […]
Sewing noteIn kimono sewing, which does not use patterns, T and V marks are used as landmarks for marking.In this time, I will tell you about the meaning and usage of these marks. What T-mark is. The T mark is shaped like the letter “T” in the alphabet.It is used like a “notch” in Western sewing, and is attaching mark when sewing two pieces of fabric together.When sewing a long distance, such as backstitching or side stitching, one T mark is attached to each 尺(1-syaku : 37.9cm) of fabric. What V-mark is. The V mark is a mark shaped like the letter “V” of the alphabet.It represents “top” such as a […]
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M KIMONO online store sells Japanese sewing tools.
When sewing a kimono, the entire process is sewn by hand.
Basic hand sewing practice and partial stitches method can be viewed free of charge.