Kimono Sewing tools are a necessity for all kimono sewers. Here are some of the tools that are especially necessary for kimono sewing. If you want to start sewing kimonos, but don’t know what kind of tools you need and how they differ from common sewing tools, this article may help you.
Tools needed for sewing kimonos are posted in the series “Kimono Sewing Tools“.
Please read about the other tools as well.
Kimono Sewing Tools
Many new kimono sewers ask themselves what are the best sewing tools and equipment to have in a beginners sewing kit.
Kimono sewing Tools can be divided into:
- Needles and Pins
- Sewing Thread
- Cutting Tools
- Measuring Tools
- Marking Tools
- Pressing Tools
- Miscellaneous Sewing Tools
If it is difficult to get tools specialized for kimono sewing, Western sewing tools are often sufficient.
What kind of thread is best
The most important thing is to choose a thread for hand sewing.
If you hand sew with sewing machine thread, the thread will tangle.
This is because the thread twist (S twist and Z twist ) is reversed between hand sewing and machine sewing.
Traditional kimono sewing is all done by hand-sewing.
Some kimonos are sewn with a sewing machine, but at M KIMONO, we introduce the method of hand-sewing.
How to choose a thread material
Match it to the material of the kimono you are about to sew.
If you are sewing a silk kimono, use silk thread.
If you are sewing a cotton kimono, use cotton thread or synthetic fiber sewing thread.
If you are sewing a synthetic fiber kimono, use synthetic fiber sewing thread.
Cotton thread is a little thick for kimonos even if you choose fine thread (is this only in Japan?). So I use polyester thread.
Silk hand sewing thread
For Japanese silk thread, use No.9 hand sewing thread.
There are threads from various manufacturers.
The picture below shows, from left to right, “Orizuru”, “TIRE”, and “Shi-lsu”.
“TIRE” in particular is a silk thread produced by Fujix, so you may be able to get it outside Japan.
Click here for the Fujix website. >>> https://www.fjx.co.jp/english/
Synthetic fiber sewing thread
Choose a polyester one. The thread thickness should be about #50.
Synthetic fiber hand sewing thread is also famous and easily available in Japan, as is Fujix thread.
The photos below are both made by Fujix.
How to choose thread colors
Match the ground color of the fabric.
If you are not sure between a slightly lighter color and a slightly darker color, choose the slightly darker thread.
If the color of the patterned part is different from the base color, you should also prepare a thread that matches the color of the pattern.
What is the length of thread needed to sew one kimono?
To sew a Hitoe-kimono or yukata, you will need about 60 meters. 40 meters is often not enough.
For colored thread, we have card-type thread, and for white and black thread, which are often used, we have Koma-type thread.
Basic sewing methodNext to the Unshin, the basics of hand sewing that you should learn are the “Kaeshibari at the first and the last seam” and “Itoshigoki”.Here, I would like to explain the series of steps.*Kaeshibari = Backstitch Video Basic Steps for Hand Sewing Video Collection M KIMONO online store Sewing Technique Kimono sewing tools
Basic sewing methodIn addition to small “mikazuki”, you may also see kimonos with long, thin stay cloth.In this time, I will show you how to make such a thin stay cloth. How to make “Chikaranuno” Stay cloth is called “chikaranuno” in Japanese. Examples showing the use The photo shows the collar used for a haori.The entire left and right “kataaki” are reinforced with one piece of “Chikaranuno” (Stay cloth). Other “Chikara-Nuno”
Basic sewing methodThe third basic sewing technique is “Honguke”.When sewing a yukata or a hitoe kimono, “honguke” is done at the time of Eri-osame (collar closing). The technique of sewing the inner fabric together with no needle in sight may seem a bit difficult, but with practice, you will get it. Video: Honguke Preparation of cloth for Honguke practice Weave the bottom side of the cloth used in the Unshin practice inside.This will make four overlapping pieces of cloth.Honguke is the technique of sewing these two inner pieces together. How to do a Honguke stitch Scoop a couple of stitches on the inner two pieces first. Hold the needle with the thumb […]
Basic sewing methodThis is a method of attaching a thread instead of a snap attached to the Hiro-eri (collar) of a kimono. This time, I will show you how the collar can be secured in three different places. The nice thing about “Hiki-ito” is that it does not rust. How to attach a Hiki-ito By passing the thread in an M-shape, the collar can be held in three places. You will need a long piece of thread since you will thread it all at once from the right side. For this thread, I don’t think it will get tangled too much, but proceed slowly. It is a good idea to make sure […]
Basic sewing methodThis is a sewing method called ” Gakubuchi ” used when sewing hitoe-kimonos and yukata.This is how the seam allowance at the tip of the Okumi (Tsumasaki : the corner) is handled.Here, I will show you in detail how to mark a 2cm hem seam allowance and a 2cm Tsuma-shita seam allowance. Video: Gakubuchi – How to make a corner. Part1 Hem and Tsuma-shita seam allowance Hem：2cmTsuma-shita：2cm Hem seam allowance and Tsuma-shita seam allowance are not always 2cm.Here we show you how to mark them with the most basic seam allowance. Marking Procedure The line is written with a 2cm seam allowance at the hem and a 2cm seam allowance […]
Basic sewing methodThis is a method of attaching a thread instead of a snap attached to the Hiro-eri (collar) of a kimono. This time, I will show you how the collar can be secured in two different places.The nice thing about “Hiki-ito” is that it does not rust. How to attach a Hiki-ito This is a method of attaching the thread in a L-shape to the extension of the center of the back.It is a good idea to make sure that the thread across around the Kata-Aki. Below is a step-by-step procedure with photos. Thread to be used フジックス タイヤー 絹穴糸16号(Fujix Tire Silk “Anaito” 16) Use double strands of this thread.Since this […]